update: added pics (thanks, john !)
no urge to post - why ? probably a good thing, means this digital appendage is abandonable. ah, well, on to a trip report. “mommy, i don't wanna go on summer vacation!” “but why, honey?” “because they'll make me write about it at school!”
the obligation i feel comes from within, of course. i guess i get committed to my ruts. also, there's the sense in which i wanted some people to come along and experience things for themselves, and since they didn't, i have a tiny perverse urge not to share. what's that all about ?
oh, and there's another reason excuse i could appeal to: letting people know about a good thing can bring crowds that ruin it. kind of the tragedy of tourism - the people that bring the money destroy what they came for.
sorry, no pictures. my cheapie cam isn't up to it, and no one has sent any yet. but no pictures - or words - can do justice to experience anyway.
30.06.05: on the road again. the boat and bike stay home, as these would be more solitary activities and i'm hoping to spend time with family while i'm up there. the adventures begin early; i hit a thunderstorm just out of town. the rest area conveniently appears before the storm does. i put on a raincoat instead of putting up the top, and continue into the rain.
the rain doesn't last long. around dayton, it begins again. this time the traffic slows to a crawl, and it's 45 minutes of sitting in a downpour. my only regret is that my mask and snorkel are at the bottom of my mound of stuff in back. traffic jams can use some mood lightening, and i would like to be able to demonstrate to my fellow drivers that i'm not an idiot, i'm intentionally getting drenched. oh - same difference.
further up the road, where things are dry again, there is an accident backing up traffic for miles. one lady is taking it very well. she's singing along to the radio and dancing in her seat. i congratulate her on her attitude. “oh well”, she says, “i'm already late for work!”.
it's getting late, i won't make it to my nephew's game at 6p (”so what rink will he be at?” “rink? he's playing baseball!” “since when?”), so i head over to my sister's house instead. i need to drop something off. (two weeks earlier, right after my last visit, she finds what she thinks is my phone charging cord, so she overnights it to me. i'm like, no, i've got mine right here. it takes a few hours before she figures out what she sent - her radio's power cord. no really, she's a brunette.)
there is a local harley owner's group meeting this evening, so i join my sister for that, only to have to stand up in front of a room full of people to introduce myself. i tell everyone that my vehicle of choice is a jeep. what was i thinking ? ;-)
01.07.05: my sister (carol) is still waffling about showing up for the weekend, so i leave her place early-ish to get to my brother's. i'm following them (john and wife kathy, 15 year old allie and 12 year old nick) in their van; hard to get a weekend's worth of toys and camping gear for five people into two jeeps - and still have room for the people. it's a pretty drive, a pretty morning - but a bit windy (say, twenty knots?). there's cow related ripeness as i go past the neighboring dairy farm.
allie & nick
no crossing at the ferry :-( that's been voted down. we rearrange passengers at the visitor centre on the canadian side and continue.
it's canada day, so all the little towns are crowded. grand bend is the first, and the worst. a cute little tourist trap town with a lake huron beach, it's packed with cars trying to get onto the main strip, backed up onto the highway. it takes 20 minutes or so to get through.
we're playing “name that critter” in the jeep, trying to identify the roadkill as we whiz past. there's a large variety today. the marlinton, wv festival comes to mind yet again. at some point we pass a sad little raccoon on his back with his hands in the air. we laugh.
all this time the west wind has been increasing, and the clouds have been accumulating. just south of kincardine we see a few drops, and we put up the top. i don't put up much of a fight, since the crosswind has been beating me up with the seatbelt. continuing, it barely sprinkles.
shortly after we turn onto the bruce peninsula the winds increase yet again. must be 40-50 knots by now. the roadkill now includes birds flopping on the side of the road. perhaps “windkill” is more accurate. wow. and yet the skies are sunny. the jeep top stays up.
carol's tent (chopping wood)
the campground is only a couple miles (i should say “kilometres”) from town, we have two adjoining ones for when (if) carol (and guest?) join us. we set up her tent as well, so that she won't have to do it in the dark. all unloaded, we head into town for dinner.
everything is pretty much the same, it's a Good Thing. pretty harbour (little tub) and boats, the shops and restaurants. at the parks office i inquire about how full the campsites are on flowerpot island, and i'm told they are empty - the wind has kept all boats in port. that makes sense. apparently the georgian bay waves are building upwards of three metres - ! (that's ten feet plus for you english system people.) a good set of “ripples” is even making its way into the harbour.
we head over to the crow's nest, which is a second story pub with a deck overlooking the entire harbour. there's a fun little band playing, and we get a table up front. they're playing classic stuff, good for sing-alongs, and their light humour and bantering adds to the mood. it's fun when canadians make canadian jokes (all together now - 1, 2, 3 - ehhhh!) as some half-baked poetry starts to form in my head, a sigh of relief spreads through me. big smile - we're here !
[a conversational moment: (i don't remember exactly when this came up): “did you see that one raccon?” “you mean the one reaching for the sky?” and everyone does their imitation of the poor dead racoon.]
the canada day fireworks having been cancelled due to wind, we head over to the big tub harbour lighthouse point to watch the fading twilight after dinner. it's midnight when we get back to camp.
02.07.05: well, carol never showed overnight. will she be coming ?
slept well in the cool temps and winds. up early (dawn'ish, 4:30a) - the winds have calmed to nothing. i try to resist making the coffee for a couple hours while i watch the sky lighten. eventually, i've done everything but turn on the burner and brew the stuff, so i just go ahead anyway. it's a toss up between trying to be helpful, and interfering with kathy's routine. turns out i do both ;-) i leave the morning fire to john - that's his routine.
the kids are up late. breakfast is pancakes and sausage (yum!). winds are coming up again, but not too much. now, to coordinate plans - what fun!
my other brother (gary) is supposed to have arrived late last night with another (six year old) nephew (steven), and his twenty foot stern-drive. we're hoping to hear from him this morning, but by ten or so we just head into town. kathy has been wanting to do some sea kayaking, so we have our dry bags packed with sandwiches & stuff.
by 11a we are on the water in little tub harbour for a half day outing. we carried the kayaks the short distance from the dive shop to the dock ourselves, dodging tourists and traffic on the way. trusting souls, they are - they'd walk within inches of a kayak end that could easily get swung their way. amazing.
the water is clear and cold, the sky is sunny, and we have to paddle into the stiff breeze to get out of the harbour. this takes a while and some energy, but is well worth the views and the being there. i watch the chi-cheemaun ferry pull out while waiting for the others, then continue around the point towards big tub and the lighthouse.
dang scuba divers are everywhere. the light was to be our lunch stop, but there's no way to take even a kayak in there without bopping a few divers and breaking the “rules of the road”. allie talks about playing whack-a-mole with her paddle.
as “luck” would have it, i know about a nearby pub ;-) (well, ok, i have stayed at the adjoining resort several times before.) after leading kathy and allie to the dock a bit farther into big tub, i go back to retrieve john and nick. nick's been getting blown back by the wind, and has been heading backward. i give him a tow the rest of the way in.
after hot tea and irish coffee and nachos - and some hand-pumped, barrel conditioned ale ;-) - everyone is warm and dry again, and we head back out. with a bit more than an hour left on the rentals, we figure we'd better head in, and opt not to go see the shipwrecks at the far end of big tub. we end up getting back to little tub with 45 minutes to spare. those were still pretty strong winds !
so we putz around in little tub, looking at the boats and a couple shipwrecks, until we are pushed out of the way by divers again. the cold (10C) clear water is tempting, so i get a hand from john's bow and flip myself upside down for a second. something to pull out of my memories later when sitting in 90 degree (F) cincinnati.
more carrying of kayaks through crowded conditions ensues (it's like an indoor mall without a roof; now add cars, boats and water). i'm going to have to do this again !
allie's version
back at camp, we find notes from gary. apparently he missed us by minutes, and was going to launch his boat at little tub, where apparently he just misses us yet again. cell phone usage is quickly dismissed - roaming charges, and what the heck - aren't we trying to get away from that ? he has a camp site at another nearby campground, and on our way to shopping and dinner (so much for camp food!) we leave notes at our camp and his, hoping to hook up later.
on our way into town we stop at a geocache site, well hidden in a pile of rocks on a side road. the canadian national parks don't allow caches in them for now.
in town, kathy and allie do some souvenir hunting while john, nick and i look around the harbour area to see if we can spot some sign of gary & steven - boat, car, trailer, whatever. we aren't really sure where he launched from, or where he'll be taking out (there's a launch and dock at his campground as well). so after a while i figure i'll go up to crow's nest and keep an eye on things (and a beer) while everyone is split up.
eventually kathy and allie appear near the boat launch, looking around wondering where everyone is. it's a bit too far for shouting (besides being annoying for the other patrons), so i run down to catch them.
or try to. a drop-off i didn't see sends me somersaulting into the street, but i just roll and keep on going. there's an audience on the pub deck.
ok, so that's two of six wanderers. the outer rail on the overlooking deck is free, so we stake out the seven stools there while watching. eventually gary and steven wander into view, see us, and wave - then turn around and head out. a short time later, john & nick show up, just missing gary. they head out a different way. kathy, allie and i are laughing. other folks in the bar think we're nuts.
eventually we all end up on the deck for whitefish, pizza, beer and other delicacies. the same band is playing again that evening. as kathy put it, “we impressed gary by knowing the playlist and the words to the 'ficklesome damsel' song”. in two nights, we had become regulars ;-)
[another conversational moment: “we saw some strange roadkill on the way up” “you mean the racoon with his paws in the air?” “yeah, that's the one!”. apparently the little guy is (in)famous - posthumously. we all do more dead racoon imitations.]
the fireworks go off fine this evening; john manages to be last in line to get in at the sweet shop for coffee. gary ponders him and steven staying over at our camp for the night; carol never showed so we have an extra tent. the sky is clear and the milkyway is bright. gary spots seven (!) satellites. at least.
03.07.05: i'm meeting gary and steven for breakfast at craiggie's this morning. he was saying he wanted a mound of eggs and sausages last night, and this is the place to get it. it's been here for over 70 years, essentially in the harbour parking lot. you can see it in old pictures, before all the other harbour structures appeared.
as i wait for gary (you always wait for gary ;-)), i talk with a retired local gentleman. the accents up here are thick. a pleasant way to pass some time. i watch as some guy with a 25 foot sailboat again tries to launch without being prepared. yesterday the harbour master had kicked him out for trying the same stunt. he moves on.
gary shows up, and breakfast is good. the waitress / owner? has an accent that's a mix between fargo and canada. the day is sunny, the winds have died down. the harbour is relatively quiet.
back at camp i finally get a shower. gary and john have disappeared to do some fishing out on the boat. the rest of us are going to explore some “caves” halfway down the peninsula.
the caves turn out to be private property. the set up reminds me a bit of a glacier hike in alaska a few years back. pay whatever you can talk the lady into, then hike back - you're on your own.
the caves are basically a section of georgian bay cliffs that were undercut by the water millenia ago (?), and have now collapsed into large amphitheatre like formations, quarter spheres open towards the water. there are some holes in the jumble that we decide to explore (we all have headlamps), turning a one hour expedition into a two hour one. great fun trying to surprise each other in the maze of rocks with the little unexpected openings. the other hikers just stay on the trail for the most part. at our lunch stop, as i'm pulling out trail mix, power bars and water, steven opines, “wow uncle chris, you are so prepared!”. it's the old boy scout in me ;-)
we stop at singing sands beach, on the lake huron side, for swimming and to meet up with gary and john. we don't see the car. but as i'm puttering by the beach house, john comes out of nowhere and sits down. they've boated over and are anchored about a half mile out - in three feet of water. singing sands is in dorcas bay, and was always very shallow. now, with the great lakes levels down several feet, the “beach” is quite a walk from the parking area. people are scattered everywhere on the sand flats.
all that shallow water is skim boarder's paradise, so we leave my nephews to it as we wade out to the boat. lake huron is clear and warm here. we visit for a bit, then john and i head to camp to get sandwiches and munchies (20 minute round trip to the car + 20 minute round trip driving + 10 minutes making sanwiches). we leave the van and take the jeep back, committing the rest of the group to a boat ride (actually, that had already been arranged).
on our way back john and i wander a bit, finding some cheap firewood on a quiet back road. back at camp to unload, we notice the campground emptying - the canadians work monday.
unloading firewood: “this log has moss on it, which way's north, eh ?” “this is canada, eh, it's all north” “oh, right, thanks”
we get over to the other campground just as the boat gets there, and we get ready for dinner. gary's pick - shipwreck lee's. he wants the corn and chicken he saw there in passing the other day. the rest of us are kind of hiding our faces; we feel disloyal to the crow's nest across the street. they're very much into some touristy pirate shtick here at lee's.
“what's an 'arrggh-arita'?” “it's when you order a margarita but they're all out of mix”
“what's on tap?” [the waitress begins an explanation of what draft beer is]. “no, not 'what's a tap' !” actually, i never hear this exchange myself, but everyone else did.
well, we order a pitcher of beer. “soorry, we're out of that. how about (this other beer) ?”. ok, fine. when that arrives, the waitress says “that's the last of it, eh?”. a beer shortage? in canada? finishing that one, we order the one remaining draft choice available. it arrives at the table three quarters full. “that's it for that one” she says. oh great - we drank canada dry ! (rim shot, please ;-)) high fives all around.
no corn or chicken either. or local whitefish. fearful of getting frozen cod, i order a burger. at least the guy they had for entertainment, a gentleman playing keyboard and singing blues, was ok. but the clam chowder got a thumbs up as better than that at crow's nest, which was a pleasant surprise.
view from big tub light
in search of dessert (cheesecake) and a proper margarita, and trying to avoid doing everything at crow's nest, we head over to big tub resort (the site of our kayak lunch). they don't have either, so after a brief stop at the lighthouse in twilight again, this time with clouds of bugs, we end up at - surprise! - crow's nest. tonight's entertainment is a solo female singer doing ballad type music. i chilled inside with a glass of tobermory scotch - from tobermory, scotland. and a beer, of course. yes, they have margaritas and cheesecake.
the final thing that needs explaining to bars is that it should not be assumed that all margaritas are supposed to be frozen. that applies to daquiris and pina coladas as well. there's a cold place in hell for whoever started things on that road. on the other hand, ordering margaritas in canada is silly, if not sacriligious. so is ordering coronas with lime.
it's late again by the time we reach camp, and everyone's too tired for a big, last-night campfire. after spotting a few more satellites, everyone heads for bed.
04.07.05: breakfast: bagels. (nick's comment: “those aren't seagulls, those are baygulls”. everyone's a comedian.) i've been up at dawn every morning, well before everyone else. it's been a warm couple of days after the first couple of days' windy chill. i get my dive gear together, intending to do one shore dive at the little tub tugs, while everyone else packs. gary and steven come by to pick up the remaining firewood and say goodbye; they are staying the rest of the week in a beach front cabin at the other campgrounds.
me, in little tub harbour
the rest of us head out to the harbour, kathy, nick and allie to do some shopping, while john comes along to help with the diving. i've forgotten one thing - dive weights. easy to come by in town. at the platform there's one small group doing a training dive, and that's it. not the crowds there were over the weekend. cool. i haven't dove in six (!) years, anything to make life easier is appreciated.
the water is cold and clear; descending and looking around, it occurs to me yet again why i do this. the colors are the classic muted shipwreck blues. visibility is better than 50 feet - maybe 70 ! and i'm the only one in the water. so instead of the twenty-thirty minutes i planned on, i stay forty or so, making it out to the far wreck and back. it was so tempting to head out into the cold murky depths that i could see (amazing visibility) from where i was, but i was sticking to my depth plan. note to self: the diving's much better when no one else is around to kick up sediment.
it's threatening rain as i finish getting the gear off, so we zip off to camp to pack my stuff and put the jeep top on. so long, tobermory :-(
dragon at harvest moon
we meet the rest of the group at a place kathy spotted the day before, about twenty minutes out of town: the harvest moon bakery and tea garden. turns out to be the neatest little place, oozing with back to basics naturalness. the grounds are the coolest; a fox is sunning itself on a large rock outcropping at the edge of the woods 50 metres away. the pasties are unbelievable, as are as the tea and porcelain cups. we divvy up a lemon poppy seed cake as well. and then we are on our way.
it was a sleepy drive back for a while. the customs line at the blue water bridge took almost an hour, and it began to rain - the jeep top was down, so i put on a raincoat. i missed the exit for the cracker barrel on the u.s. side and had a little drive in the downpour. the trip was ending how it started.
hung out for a couple days in the detroit area. caught the scifi channel battlestar galactica marathon. went to a local beach and snorkeled. saw some friends and grilled out and drank beer. eventually drove home. and here i am - i still need a shave ;-)
flowers at harvest moon; these things practically glowed